SB Acoustics SB20FRPC30-8 (8" Fullrange Cheap Monster II)

I see this in my tlhp account (before tax)

15pr400.PNG

There's a cheaper option now too

15pr300.PNG
 
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That 15PR300 is new to me? Could be interesting?

Troels was the one who put me onto the PR400

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/OBL-15.htm

Unfortunately things are often vastly more expensive in Australia than they should be, I was very fortunate to get a bargain, I actually got them for less than that price.......................................

But anyway, I digress!!!! :LOL:

I do appreciate the synergy of using a similar woofer to help out the full ranger. Elegant.
 
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Beginner here. I'm considering using this driver to built a cheap 5.1 system for my son. Most people here seem to use horns, transmission lines etc to get some bass out. What if I just want to use it as a "sat" speaker, sealed box with a 2nd order high pass, which would be simpler to construct than ported etc. - would it be possible to build something relatively compact, and use a high pass of no higher than 120 Hz?

Due to placement, I have plenty of wall space available but not much depth. So the box could be relatively wide and tall (to an extent), but needs to be shallow. What would be the least advisable cabinet depth? I assume the driver needs room to "breathe"?

Thanks.
 
i have reduce the polyester to 40gr but we don't have all the same polyester.
to macci in my opinion DDVP20 is a too big bow for what it bring in bass for instrumental music it can be a good a idea but in any case if you listen modern music you need a sub.... your idea to make sattelite is good.... what about a blenda box( bowl) to have less diffraction and better spatialisation...
 
@Pierrick59
You will then need two big blenda boxes.
On another note, what amplifier are you using? That can have quite an impact. In my experience, fullrange speakers sound better with an amp that has somewhat higher output impedance (3-15 ohms).
If you are using a typical "transistor" amp with the fullranger, it can sound " thin".
For a test, try to find a high power 10 ohm resistor, and put it in series, between the amplifier and a speaker (+ lead).
Then report back ;)
 
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If you have five 20cm SB Acoustics drivers I would use them fullrange in standing bass reflex boxes, close to the walls or even corner placement.

Then you can omit easily a subwoofer.

Or you put them in small well stuffed closed boxes as you described. Maybe wall mounted. They are filtered by the amplifier. No need for extra high pass. But then you need a potent subwoofer.

Some modern surround amps have Auto EQ function!
 
Beginner here. I'm considering using this driver to built a cheap 5.1 system for my son. Most people here seem to use horns, transmission lines etc to get some bass out. What if I just want to use it as a "sat" speaker, sealed box with a 2nd order high pass, which would be simpler to construct than ported etc. - would it be possible to build something relatively compact, and use a high pass of no higher than 120 Hz?

Due to placement, I have plenty of wall space available but not much depth. So the box could be relatively wide and tall (to an extent), but needs to be shallow. What would be the least advisable cabinet depth? I assume the driver needs room to "breathe"?

Thanks

I used them in 9.25 deep. Only around 7.5” internal depth and they are fantastic to my ears. You could probably go shallower honestly, especially for less critical HT use. Mine are in about 23L sealed with SB20 woofer in a .5 way (17L). If you wall mount, you can probably get your baffle step comp there and eliminate the second woofer or and baffle stet circuits. Anything under q=1 if fine imo, especially for a driver than isn’t playing that deep