Hi everybody,
I have a Pyle PLPW15D speaker and an already built box, and i want to adjust the box (if possible) to match the speaker. I want an optimal performance for the speaker, a good balance between SPL and quality.
Box specs: W550mm X H414mm X D450mm external size , with a slotted port of 50mm X 378mm with 432 mm (+18mm box wall) depth . (on the right side of the cabinet)
Manufacturer recommends a 2.1 cu ft box tuned at 44 HZ. I don't know if this is right or not for this speaker...
TS parameters:
Power:1000W RMS
Rated Impedance (4+4 ohms) (i will use it in parallel, so 2 ohms impedance)
Sensitivity (1W/M) : 90DB
FS: 29.02 Hz
Re: 3.4 + 3.4 ohm (1,7 ohms in parallel )
Qms: 3.94
Qes: 0.5199
Qts: 0.4593
Vas: 195.68
Sd: 0.082 m2
EBP: 55.8
X-max: 8mm
I would be very grateful if somebody could input the parameters in winISD (i don't know exactly which order i need to follow, because some parameters are automatically calculated) and simulate an optimal box with my actual volume, so i can play maybe with the port dimensions (i can still adjust the box, as is not painted yet)
Thanks a lot!
I have a Pyle PLPW15D speaker and an already built box, and i want to adjust the box (if possible) to match the speaker. I want an optimal performance for the speaker, a good balance between SPL and quality.
Box specs: W550mm X H414mm X D450mm external size , with a slotted port of 50mm X 378mm with 432 mm (+18mm box wall) depth . (on the right side of the cabinet)
Manufacturer recommends a 2.1 cu ft box tuned at 44 HZ. I don't know if this is right or not for this speaker...
TS parameters:
Power:1000W RMS
Rated Impedance (4+4 ohms) (i will use it in parallel, so 2 ohms impedance)
Sensitivity (1W/M) : 90DB
FS: 29.02 Hz
Re: 3.4 + 3.4 ohm (1,7 ohms in parallel )
Qms: 3.94
Qes: 0.5199
Qts: 0.4593
Vas: 195.68
Sd: 0.082 m2
EBP: 55.8
X-max: 8mm
I would be very grateful if somebody could input the parameters in winISD (i don't know exactly which order i need to follow, because some parameters are automatically calculated) and simulate an optimal box with my actual volume, so i can play maybe with the port dimensions (i can still adjust the box, as is not painted yet)
Thanks a lot!
This one is ~3.35 ft^3 tuned to ~32 Hz, so if you reduce it to 2.1+ driver ft^3, then the vent needs to be shortened by ~4.33".
To keep vent mach down to 20 m/sec. requires a ~300 W peak limit, ~200 W if left as is.
One of several online WinISD tutorials [scroll down to driver editor]: WinISD – a beginners tutorial | Midwest Audio Club
GM
To keep vent mach down to 20 m/sec. requires a ~300 W peak limit, ~200 W if left as is.
One of several online WinISD tutorials [scroll down to driver editor]: WinISD – a beginners tutorial | Midwest Audio Club
GM
I have built 4 sub woofers around this driver (as its super cheap): 2 subs using two drivers in 200L (pretty flat frequency response) and 2 subs using four drivers in 200L (maximum output in given volume design). I built them with drivers on opposing faces which I found effective for reducing cabinet vibration, to the extent I would always use mechanically opposed pairs of drivers in future subs. If you have have the amplifier power and don't mind a lot of EQ you want about 50L sealed per driver. No problems with vents. I have attached a design I did for a friend using two drivers in ~100L showing what is possible from a sealed box.
Data-Bass is a comparison between sealed and vented alignments. If you are volume constrained in a sub design and can afford more drivers and power you end up with a greater output using sealed over vented.
Data-Bass is a comparison between sealed and vented alignments. If you are volume constrained in a sub design and can afford more drivers and power you end up with a greater output using sealed over vented.
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I would like to use just one speaker and adjust the box I already have. Any suggestion around this would be great appreciated.
Thanks!
Hi All,
FYI:
b
ah that explains a lot, I misread the inductance? when I measure the box frequency response near field I get that reduction in HF output. I thought it may have been a measurement artifact as its a very difficult box to measure in a room due to the multiple outputs in close proximity.
I measured the TS parameters using a WT3 and got the attached results. The driver has been broken in. The added mass was 167g and the piston diameter 323.11 mm. This is with both voice coils in series. The results are a long way from the manufacturers. This is the first time I have used this tool so I could have made a mistake.
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Thanks everybody for the replies, i really appreciate... But now i am very confuse... Is there anything that i can do with my box to make it to sound good? Or i should transform it into a sealed box? I can still do that as it's not painted yet... based on bjorno's posts, it doesn't look too good...
Should i mention that i will wire it in parallel, and i have enough power for it.
Should i mention that i will wire it in parallel, and i have enough power for it.
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You could check what the free air resonant frequency of your driver is to see if it matches the spec. It should be the frequency where current flow is minimum. You can use a computer to generate a sine wave, a power amp and a current meter. If you don't have a current meter you could use a series resistor and watch the cone as you adjust the frequency, at resonance it will suddenly move more.
I have simulated my box with WinISD and bassbox (i need to mention that i am beginner here) and if i shorten the port then i could have +5 DB at 70Hz .... Or i can just make the box smaller and close it completely...
These are the 2 easiest options i can see for now...
Which one do you think is better?
These are the 2 easiest options i can see for now...
Which one do you think is better?
well the question is what are the T/S parameters of your particular driver, I only have one sample here where parameters are very different to the manufacturer supplied. For any sim to be valid you need good input data. If you are unable to get measurements, sealed boxes are less sensitive to driver parameter variance and don't have a risk of driver damage if operated below resonance (a simple maximum power input limit is sufficient to limit excursion). However long term power handling is reduced due to box heating compared to ported boxes (probably not an issue anywhere apart from PA).
I have a small oscilloscope, multi-meter, i can generate tone(40Hz?) from the Car HU, i have a 2 ohm stable 500W amplifier (so i can use the speaker with coils connected in parallel).
Can you please guide me into some measurements to get a better idea about the driver?
Thank you!
sure the easiest thing to find is the resonant frequency in free air. This will give you a good idea if the T/S parameters supplied by the manufacturer apply in your case. Just sweep a sine wave slowly for 10 - 50Hz (computer or phone can generate this). resonance is when the current flowing through the driver is at its minimum. You will want to break in the driver first by running it at close to maximum excursion for a few hours first, I like to use 10Hz for this but this causes quite a bit of heating so you will need to keep the magnet vent clear and let the driver cool down before checking the free air resonance.
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