CMV CT-520D compatible
Model: CMV CT-520D
Size: 15"
Resolution: 1024x768
Color: 16.7 Million
Contrast: 500:1
Response: 16ms
Pixel pitch: Horizontal 0.297mm x Vertical 0.297mm
Inputs: Analog 15-pin D-sub, Digital 24-pin DVI_D
Power: External transformer. in: 100-240VAC~50-60Hz 1.2A out:12VDC 4.0A
FFC Issue: NO (2 FFC Cables do not need extending)
http://www.icuepc.com/www/productdetail.asp?did=353 3 dead pixel replacement policy (as low as $169 usd as of 2.1.2004)
Model: CMV CT-520D
Size: 15"
Resolution: 1024x768
Color: 16.7 Million
Contrast: 500:1
Response: 16ms
Pixel pitch: Horizontal 0.297mm x Vertical 0.297mm
Inputs: Analog 15-pin D-sub, Digital 24-pin DVI_D
Power: External transformer. in: 100-240VAC~50-60Hz 1.2A out:12VDC 4.0A
FFC Issue: NO (2 FFC Cables do not need extending)
http://www.icuepc.com/www/productdetail.asp?did=353 3 dead pixel replacement policy (as low as $169 usd as of 2.1.2004)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
15" Viewsonic VE150
15" Viewsonic VE150
350:1 Contrast Ratio.
75hz Input Max.
30ms Response Time (Absolutaly no ghosting AT ALL, no matter how much action.)
1024x768 Native Resolution.
Very easy to strip, even has something like 40cm FCC cables that go from the main board and the LCD..
15" Viewsonic VE150
350:1 Contrast Ratio.
75hz Input Max.
30ms Response Time (Absolutaly no ghosting AT ALL, no matter how much action.)
1024x768 Native Resolution.
Very easy to strip, even has something like 40cm FCC cables that go from the main board and the LCD..
Attachments
CMV CT-520D Stripping Question
I am in the process of stripping this monitor (CMV CT-520D) and have a couple questions. How did you disconnect the small 18 pin connector at the switch circuit board that connects it to the controller circuit board via the long cable? I hope I did not damage the cable when I gently stripped it away from the backlight case. For the two FCC cables, did you just pull gently on the white cable pulls to disconnect them? Any thing else I should watch out for?
Thanks,
I am in the process of stripping this monitor (CMV CT-520D) and have a couple questions. How did you disconnect the small 18 pin connector at the switch circuit board that connects it to the controller circuit board via the long cable? I hope I did not damage the cable when I gently stripped it away from the backlight case. For the two FCC cables, did you just pull gently on the white cable pulls to disconnect them? Any thing else I should watch out for?
Thanks,
help CT-520D strip
check out http://k1h.blogspot.com/2005/02/projectors-lcd-found.html as it shows the pics i took during the strip.
on the 7 button input board, the ffc socket had a little door that flipped up. I then carefully lifted the ffc off the metal backing as it was sticky, removed the metal cover over the electronics and slid it down the cable. I never disconnected the ffc from the electronics board, only from the 7 button input board. .http://img74.exs.cx/img74/8513/196oq.jpg
the two ffc's at the top of the electroncs also mate into ffc sockets that have little doors that flip up. check out this image specifically: http://img74.exs.cx/img74/5333/222el.jpg as it demonstrates the doors 'opened'.
i hope that helps. let me know if I need to explain it differently.
check out http://k1h.blogspot.com/2005/02/projectors-lcd-found.html as it shows the pics i took during the strip.
on the 7 button input board, the ffc socket had a little door that flipped up. I then carefully lifted the ffc off the metal backing as it was sticky, removed the metal cover over the electronics and slid it down the cable. I never disconnected the ffc from the electronics board, only from the 7 button input board. .http://img74.exs.cx/img74/8513/196oq.jpg
the two ffc's at the top of the electroncs also mate into ffc sockets that have little doors that flip up. check out this image specifically: http://img74.exs.cx/img74/5333/222el.jpg as it demonstrates the doors 'opened'.
i hope that helps. let me know if I need to explain it differently.
CMV CT-520D Works on OHP
Thanks forkev,
Once I knew that critical piece of information the flex and ribbon cables were easy to remove and I was able to perform an initial test of the LCD on a 3M 9550 (no mods to any cables). I was pretty impressed. I placed the LCD on the OHP about 0.25 inches (6 mm) above the stage glass. In a mostly dark room the picture was clear and sharp for DVD video with a about a 6 foot diagonal screen, however the screen door effect could be seen when standing by the OHP or closer to the screen (Ivory colored wall). Using the low light setting of the 9550 was best because I did not have a good set up to block light leakage. Now off to mod the OHP to get more of the LCD lit and make a frame to hold it (add UV filter and cooling). This site is a great place for info.
Thanks to all.
Thanks forkev,
Once I knew that critical piece of information the flex and ribbon cables were easy to remove and I was able to perform an initial test of the LCD on a 3M 9550 (no mods to any cables). I was pretty impressed. I placed the LCD on the OHP about 0.25 inches (6 mm) above the stage glass. In a mostly dark room the picture was clear and sharp for DVD video with a about a 6 foot diagonal screen, however the screen door effect could be seen when standing by the OHP or closer to the screen (Ivory colored wall). Using the low light setting of the 9550 was best because I did not have a good set up to block light leakage. Now off to mod the OHP to get more of the LCD lit and make a frame to hold it (add UV filter and cooling). This site is a great place for info.
Thanks to all.
Dithering?
How many of these panels don't use dithering, I mean
tell me one which can make the Windows "50% Gray" pattern background test without any flickering. I guess there are none, well, maybe the CMV panels, don't know.
I use AUO panel from BenQ FP567s and I can't watch it more because of the dithering. I can also see other artifacts like horizontal lines on some gray(color) images - there are no dead pixels but the image just have those lines kind of "between pixel line". Solid R, G or B images don't have those lines. I think the controller on BenQ is not very good or the analog signal is somehow bad.
How many of these panels don't use dithering, I mean
tell me one which can make the Windows "50% Gray" pattern background test without any flickering. I guess there are none, well, maybe the CMV panels, don't know.
I use AUO panel from BenQ FP567s and I can't watch it more because of the dithering. I can also see other artifacts like horizontal lines on some gray(color) images - there are no dead pixels but the image just have those lines kind of "between pixel line". Solid R, G or B images don't have those lines. I think the controller on BenQ is not very good or the analog signal is somehow bad.
acer info
this is the reply when i asked for help from acer???
Thank you for contacting Acer America. Acer can provide no details on the
functionality of our products when used in a manner other than their
original purpose / design. I'm sorry I am unable to assist with this issue.
Respectfully,
Karen Cavil
Acer America E-Mail Technical Support
this is the reply when i asked for help from acer???
Thank you for contacting Acer America. Acer can provide no details on the
functionality of our products when used in a manner other than their
original purpose / design. I'm sorry I am unable to assist with this issue.
Respectfully,
Karen Cavil
Acer America E-Mail Technical Support
a DIY "compatible" monitor
Just a heads up that Toms Hardware lists the Samsung 152V as being DIY compatible however after I just finished extracting the LCD panel I have found that a FFC ribbon cable is way too short. I guess I will try an extension from Lumen Lab? Has anyone out there successfullly solved an FFC problem using an extension such as those offered at Lumen Lab?
Just a heads up that Toms Hardware lists the Samsung 152V as being DIY compatible however after I just finished extracting the LCD panel I have found that a FFC ribbon cable is way too short. I guess I will try an extension from Lumen Lab? Has anyone out there successfullly solved an FFC problem using an extension such as those offered at Lumen Lab?
LCD FFC
Firstly;
Philips 150S5F series HAS the FFC issues.
I have purchased one & are very happy with the results achieved. Specs, brand, local availability and lastly price formed my selection criteria.
I got around the FFC prob. with roll of solid core silver patch wire - extending the existing FFC by removing the surface mnt connectors and patching directly onto both horizontal and vertical boards.
I used a temp. controlled iron and a magnifying/lamp combo. It took patience, by hey....i'd do it again. Give it a shot! It is a feasable solution.
Here are some pics of my work (yeah yeah..... by no means the perfect example)
http://www.purtell.org/lcd/1.jpg
http://www.purtell.org/lcd/2.jpg
Oh yeah, and that aluminium clamp you see, its a must have. Dont even begin patching without installing one for support first.
I'll post some more pictures if ppl are interested.
Happy soldering!
Matty
Firstly;
Philips 150S5F series HAS the FFC issues.
I have purchased one & are very happy with the results achieved. Specs, brand, local availability and lastly price formed my selection criteria.
I got around the FFC prob. with roll of solid core silver patch wire - extending the existing FFC by removing the surface mnt connectors and patching directly onto both horizontal and vertical boards.
I used a temp. controlled iron and a magnifying/lamp combo. It took patience, by hey....i'd do it again. Give it a shot! It is a feasable solution.
Here are some pics of my work (yeah yeah..... by no means the perfect example)
http://www.purtell.org/lcd/1.jpg
http://www.purtell.org/lcd/2.jpg
Oh yeah, and that aluminium clamp you see, its a must have. Dont even begin patching without installing one for support first.
I'll post some more pictures if ppl are interested.
Happy soldering!
Matty
Kogi L4AX 14" 1024 x 768
Very easy to strip - jewelers philips head and flat head is all you need. You'll need to remove some metal backed tape but that's easy too.
Needs a 20 connector 0.5 mm pitch FFC extension once you get down to the panel. You can use it without the extension also but it's not as convenient that way since you can't see the top of the screen and use it as a big screen desktop for PC use so get the extension.
I used a 6 inch FFC extension and a vertical FFC connector.
Mouser Electronics sells these and it's very low cost. Including shipping it's about $9.
It's a little difficult getting two FFC cables in one connector but they eventually go in and stay that way once you're done.
I also put most of the monitor back together and put it back on its stand. The controller cable reaches through a hole I cut through the plastic case and now have enough room for the panel to reach the OHP stage just fine with slack to spare.
I don't know the specs on this monitor but I only watch DVD and satellite on it and it looks fabulous. I just bought another one for $100 shipping included as a spare!
My next project is with a Samsung SIR T351 HDTV over the air tuner I just bought refurbished for $120 shipping included to connect to it Hello 720p resolution! I'm so excited and I just can't hide it! The Samsung has a VGA output to connect to my panel. As Jack "The Shining" Nicholson once said "GO CHECK IT OUT!
Very easy to strip - jewelers philips head and flat head is all you need. You'll need to remove some metal backed tape but that's easy too.
Needs a 20 connector 0.5 mm pitch FFC extension once you get down to the panel. You can use it without the extension also but it's not as convenient that way since you can't see the top of the screen and use it as a big screen desktop for PC use so get the extension.
I used a 6 inch FFC extension and a vertical FFC connector.
Mouser Electronics sells these and it's very low cost. Including shipping it's about $9.
It's a little difficult getting two FFC cables in one connector but they eventually go in and stay that way once you're done.
I also put most of the monitor back together and put it back on its stand. The controller cable reaches through a hole I cut through the plastic case and now have enough room for the panel to reach the OHP stage just fine with slack to spare.
I don't know the specs on this monitor but I only watch DVD and satellite on it and it looks fabulous. I just bought another one for $100 shipping included as a spare!
My next project is with a Samsung SIR T351 HDTV over the air tuner I just bought refurbished for $120 shipping included to connect to it Hello 720p resolution! I'm so excited and I just can't hide it! The Samsung has a VGA output to connect to my panel. As Jack "The Shining" Nicholson once said "GO CHECK IT OUT!
1000:1 panels
I am looking for panels in the 1000:1 contrast ratio range.
I have only found 17" like the Dell, Samsung, etc..
a) has anybody found 15" displays in the range of 1000:1 contrast ratio ?
b) has anybody done some testing with 1000:1 panels (15" or 17")
I would expect the results to be very good!
Thanks,
JLD
I am looking for panels in the 1000:1 contrast ratio range.
I have only found 17" like the Dell, Samsung, etc..
a) has anybody found 15" displays in the range of 1000:1 contrast ratio ?
b) has anybody done some testing with 1000:1 panels (15" or 17")
I would expect the results to be very good!
Thanks,
JLD
Hercules Prophetview 720 15" (XGA, contrast 300:1, >30ms)
I tryed to dismantle this LCD yesterday and it can't be used for DIY projector because it has one mainboard that is connected with LCD matrix in the bottom and at the left side. maybe it would be possible to use it if one hase some extension cable for this flat cable. it's some 18 or 20 lines on this flat cable. i don't know what sort of flat cables are in other LCDs but this one seemed to me very good because it is protected in it's full lenght with some kind of cloth-duck tape so i suppose it's pritty hard to break it, because i heard that many people destoyed their cables when dismantling LCDs. bye.
I tryed to dismantle this LCD yesterday and it can't be used for DIY projector because it has one mainboard that is connected with LCD matrix in the bottom and at the left side. maybe it would be possible to use it if one hase some extension cable for this flat cable. it's some 18 or 20 lines on this flat cable. i don't know what sort of flat cables are in other LCDs but this one seemed to me very good because it is protected in it's full lenght with some kind of cloth-duck tape so i suppose it's pritty hard to break it, because i heard that many people destoyed their cables when dismantling LCDs. bye.
Re: Maximum LCD monitor size
If the area is 10"x10" and your monitor is 4:3, the maximum diagonal size you could fit on it is 10/4 * 5 = 12.5" without loosing any part of the picture.
A 17" is 17/5 * 4 = 13.6 inch wide and 17/5 * 3 = 10.2" high. This means that it will use all of the light from the ohp but you won't get the whole image from the lcd.
djk2000 said:
If the area is 10"x10" and your monitor is 4:3, the maximum diagonal size you could fit on it is 10/4 * 5 = 12.5" without loosing any part of the picture.
A 17" is 17/5 * 4 = 13.6 inch wide and 17/5 * 3 = 10.2" high. This means that it will use all of the light from the ohp but you won't get the whole image from the lcd.
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