I have a midrange speaker with a neodymium motor and my question is surely stupid, what should I modify to convert this midrange speaker into
a low resonance woofer to be able to make low frequencies? Taking advantage of its neodymium motor and 2" coil. The midrange in question is this: https://maverickscustommotorsports....-back-carbon-fiber-neodymium-midrange-speaker
I had thought about opening the closed chassis and changing the suspension for another, but I suppose the coil and its travel would also play a role.
a low resonance woofer to be able to make low frequencies? Taking advantage of its neodymium motor and 2" coil. The midrange in question is this: https://maverickscustommotorsports....-back-carbon-fiber-neodymium-midrange-speaker
I had thought about opening the closed chassis and changing the suspension for another, but I suppose the coil and its travel would also play a role.
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I have a midrange speaker with a neodymium motor and my question is surely stupid, what should I modify to convert this midrange speaker into
a low resonance woofer to be able to make low frequencies? Taking advantage of its neodymium motor and 2" coil. The midrange in question is this: https://maverickscustommotorsports....-back-carbon-fiber-neodymium-midrange-speaker
I had thought about opening the closed chassis and changing the suspension for another, but I suppose the coil and its travel would also play a role.
Please use English.
a low resonance woofer to be able to make low frequencies? Taking advantage of its neodymium motor and 2" coil. The midrange in question is this: https://maverickscustommotorsports....-back-carbon-fiber-neodymium-midrange-speaker
I had thought about opening the closed chassis and changing the suspension for another, but I suppose the coil and its travel would also play a role.
Please use English.
Error when copying and pasting sorry, thanks for all the answers. I'm looking like crazy for a 6.5" subwoofer that doesn't weigh too much and has a good motor and coil as well as good displacement to fit into the car door, hence the neodymium motor is necessary. It would only be necessary for it to reach 700 hz since I have dedicated midrange. The truth is that there is little to choose from.
Has anyone ever tried making a custom driver? with the cone motors and coils that are available to purchase separately?
Here is low profile 6.5" subwoofer.
https://www.parts-express.com/GRS-6LPSW-4-6-1-2-Low-Profile-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-292-461
https://www.parts-express.com/GRS-6LPSW-4-6-1-2-Low-Profile-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-292-461
Dayton makes low profile woofers. They are expensive.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-LS10-44-10-Low-Profile-Subwoofer-Dual-4-Ohm-295-251
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-LS10-44-10-Low-Profile-Subwoofer-Dual-4-Ohm-295-251
May ask why not look at the Earthquake brand drivers made for that job and sold in pairs instead of underseat or boot type subs? How is the weight related to a door install? I ask because the driver from my Cub Sandwich thread is something that will go into the doors of my Subaru XV too. These suit very small cabs to 4L and can go 50hz or lower. Its one 'andu' driver so needs a custom semi podish install
As humble as it is, it's way more capable than that Beyma
Stated 4mm X-max but most important 15mm thick magnet, so I estimate X-damage is around 12mm, quite acceptable under the circumstances
Plus it sports 48Hz resonance with no mods needed.
And frame is open back, of course.
I had some Accuton C173-6-191 drivers with broken ceramics. from a few years ago at home, I have disassembled them and I plan to replace the ferrite with neodymium of the same height 20 mm and place a 6.5" carbon cone with a fairly large suspension. The coil is 38 mm titanium, the The truth is that disassembling everything was easier than I thought; all the pieces were disassembled without much effort.
Ahh, so you want to take the "home brew" made driver route, that's fine as long you have realistic expectations.
One thing to note is that changing the magnets will alter the parameters of the driver specially BL, do You have a way to measure the TS parameters once you finish your franken driver?
That will help to get a ballpark projection on what to expect freq wise from your planned setup.
One thing to note is that changing the magnets will alter the parameters of the driver specially BL, do You have a way to measure the TS parameters once you finish your franken driver?
That will help to get a ballpark projection on what to expect freq wise from your planned setup.