Hi all,
I wanted to gather insights as to what would be an appropriate sound system for my specific needs. I am not an audiophile. I primarily intend on using my sound set up with my high end gaming PC in my living room. I want something better than my current Yamaha 107 sound bar. I stream music from the aforementioned PC, usually through Youtube, and occasionally spotify/pandora. I stream on netflix via my PC occasionally. My budget is about $1000. I have a 65" Sony A80J OLED as well as an 86" LG LED from a couple of years ago.
I've done some of my own research. I've been looking at super high end soundbars (i.e., Sonos ARC) vs a nice speaker set up (I DO NOT want surround sound/5 speakers. I want at max 2 high quality speakers). I already know most people on an audiophile channel are generally not receptive to soundbars. And I'm totally open to constructing a good speaker set up (I guess the 2 speakers for sure, perhaps a receiver, and maybe a subwoofer? (I'm not big into bass)). But is an expensive set up like this suitable for my specific set up (connecting to the gaming PC)? There are only so many games that even support Dolby Atmos (I'll be honest, I don't even know much about Atmos, and don't know what I'm missing out on b/c I've never had a high quality sound system).
My PC has the ability to connect via an optical cable, and the AUX 3.5mm output. My Sony OLED has an eARC output, but not my LG TV.
Will I even get the most out of a classic audiophile set up (receiver/2 high quality speakers/subwoofer) if I'm only connecting it to a gaming PC? Is the Sonos ARC or Beam soundbar right up my alley then if I'm just using it for gaming? I'm in a bit of analysis paralysis: I keep looking up great bookshelf speakers (e.g., JBL, Klipsch), but am not sure if these will sound superbly better with a gaming PC compared to the soundbar if I'm not even playing games with Atmos.
Appreciate any insights!
I wanted to gather insights as to what would be an appropriate sound system for my specific needs. I am not an audiophile. I primarily intend on using my sound set up with my high end gaming PC in my living room. I want something better than my current Yamaha 107 sound bar. I stream music from the aforementioned PC, usually through Youtube, and occasionally spotify/pandora. I stream on netflix via my PC occasionally. My budget is about $1000. I have a 65" Sony A80J OLED as well as an 86" LG LED from a couple of years ago.
I've done some of my own research. I've been looking at super high end soundbars (i.e., Sonos ARC) vs a nice speaker set up (I DO NOT want surround sound/5 speakers. I want at max 2 high quality speakers). I already know most people on an audiophile channel are generally not receptive to soundbars. And I'm totally open to constructing a good speaker set up (I guess the 2 speakers for sure, perhaps a receiver, and maybe a subwoofer? (I'm not big into bass)). But is an expensive set up like this suitable for my specific set up (connecting to the gaming PC)? There are only so many games that even support Dolby Atmos (I'll be honest, I don't even know much about Atmos, and don't know what I'm missing out on b/c I've never had a high quality sound system).
My PC has the ability to connect via an optical cable, and the AUX 3.5mm output. My Sony OLED has an eARC output, but not my LG TV.
Will I even get the most out of a classic audiophile set up (receiver/2 high quality speakers/subwoofer) if I'm only connecting it to a gaming PC? Is the Sonos ARC or Beam soundbar right up my alley then if I'm just using it for gaming? I'm in a bit of analysis paralysis: I keep looking up great bookshelf speakers (e.g., JBL, Klipsch), but am not sure if these will sound superbly better with a gaming PC compared to the soundbar if I'm not even playing games with Atmos.
Appreciate any insights!
Your application sounds perfect for a good set of powered speakers. I'd look at a pair of JBL LSR308. You'll be under budget and they perform incredibly well. Adding a sub is easy if you decide you need even more bass, and you really only need a streamer/dac kind of thing to get the signal from you computer & TV to the speakers.
+1 on the JBL LSR308mkII (and the idea of powered speakers in general).
A pair of those on good stands would sound far better than a soundbar.
With an 83" screen, it sounds like you might sit far back from the speakers, using a wireless controller, or wireless keyboard and mouse. How far from the speakers will you be sitting when you're playing or watching movies?
How loud do you play the soundtracks?
If you sit more than 6 feet back from the speakers, listen at fairly high volume levels, and you're in a relatively large room, you may end up wanting to add the powered subwoofer so the main speakers don't try to play the low bass explosions and rumbles, allowing that main stereo pair to play the voices and such louder and more cleanly. There is a dedicated subwoofer JBL makes for the LSR308 (works for the LSR305 too), which costs $465 these days. You could get a pair of LSR305mkII with the LSR310S subwoofer for about $815 or thereabouts, which keeps things within your budget.
Will you be using the PC as your volume control? The one thing about active (powered) speakers like the LSR308 is that each cabinet has its own level control, located on its back panel. That's not convenient for use as the volume control. I use a 'passive preamp' (input selector switch and variable resistor volume control) which is easily accessible from where I sit. There are decent ones available for not much money. Some pro audio manufacturers make decent ones. None of these are going to be 'ultimate audiophile' quality, but it sounds like that probably won't matter. I'd look at something like the Mackie Big Knob Passive ($70 new) or the Schiit SYS ($49). Mackie stuff is more recording studio oriented (therefore more versatile), while Schiit stuff is more audiophile.
These days, USB DACs are more popular than DACs with optical S/PDIF input. There plenty of quite good ones available for about $100 (some less than that). You could connect a DAC like that to a USB port on your PC, and that will act as an output-only 'sound card' kind of thing.
PC USB port > USB DAC > Mackie Big Knob Passive > Powered Speakers = DONE!
-or-
PC AUX 3.5mm line out > Mackie Big Knob Passive > Powered Speakers = Done cheaper and easier (but maybe would sound just a little less good).
Either way, that could be quite the high-end stereo PC gaming setup.
A pair of those on good stands would sound far better than a soundbar.
With an 83" screen, it sounds like you might sit far back from the speakers, using a wireless controller, or wireless keyboard and mouse. How far from the speakers will you be sitting when you're playing or watching movies?
How loud do you play the soundtracks?
If you sit more than 6 feet back from the speakers, listen at fairly high volume levels, and you're in a relatively large room, you may end up wanting to add the powered subwoofer so the main speakers don't try to play the low bass explosions and rumbles, allowing that main stereo pair to play the voices and such louder and more cleanly. There is a dedicated subwoofer JBL makes for the LSR308 (works for the LSR305 too), which costs $465 these days. You could get a pair of LSR305mkII with the LSR310S subwoofer for about $815 or thereabouts, which keeps things within your budget.
Will you be using the PC as your volume control? The one thing about active (powered) speakers like the LSR308 is that each cabinet has its own level control, located on its back panel. That's not convenient for use as the volume control. I use a 'passive preamp' (input selector switch and variable resistor volume control) which is easily accessible from where I sit. There are decent ones available for not much money. Some pro audio manufacturers make decent ones. None of these are going to be 'ultimate audiophile' quality, but it sounds like that probably won't matter. I'd look at something like the Mackie Big Knob Passive ($70 new) or the Schiit SYS ($49). Mackie stuff is more recording studio oriented (therefore more versatile), while Schiit stuff is more audiophile.
These days, USB DACs are more popular than DACs with optical S/PDIF input. There plenty of quite good ones available for about $100 (some less than that). You could connect a DAC like that to a USB port on your PC, and that will act as an output-only 'sound card' kind of thing.
PC USB port > USB DAC > Mackie Big Knob Passive > Powered Speakers = DONE!
-or-
PC AUX 3.5mm line out > Mackie Big Knob Passive > Powered Speakers = Done cheaper and easier (but maybe would sound just a little less good).
Either way, that could be quite the high-end stereo PC gaming setup.
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Very much appreciate both of y'alls input!
I will definitely add these JBL speakers to my shopping list for when Black Friday rolls around.
Yup, I use wireless mouse/keyboard/controller (I'm definitely not the classical PC gamer who uses a gaming chair/desk). I sit about 10 feet back from my TV (more like laying flat on a couch bed of sorts).
I play music mild/medium loud. I can't really play too loud given it would disrupt neighbors near me. I might even invest in some Sennheiser audiophile headphones that I can use when I'm gaming at night. My understanding is sound systems work best when you have them somewhat loud (but obviously not too loud where it harms your hearing).
I'm definitely open to a subwoofer, then. I hope it won't be a low return on investment if I'm not playing the music too loud.
So wait, would I not be able to control volume at all through my PC? If I set the speakers to 50-75% volume and decrease/increase sound volume through Windows, would it not do anything?
Interesting, didn't even know about these DACs. Which one do you like in particular? I see numerous options on Amazon.
I wish there was a way to compare/contrast all these set ups in person before I buy them. Not sure if BestBuy has good real world demos, or maybe I just need to look around town for any audio stores.
You can definitely control the volume through your PC. Actually, with your wireless controller setup, that will probably be the best way for you to do that. So I think you can forget what I was saying about the volume control box.
One thing that's nice about a gaming PC vs. Xbox/PlayStation is that you can add stuff as you go along, and you have a wide variety to choose from.
Do you get your entertainment programming from streaming services on your PC, and then play that through the TV? Or do you have a separate box (or cable) for TV programs, and switch to the PC for gaming, so all the sound ultimately comes from the TV?
Is your soundbar currently connected to your TV, or is it connected to the PC?
One thing that's nice about a gaming PC vs. Xbox/PlayStation is that you can add stuff as you go along, and you have a wide variety to choose from.
Do you get your entertainment programming from streaming services on your PC, and then play that through the TV? Or do you have a separate box (or cable) for TV programs, and switch to the PC for gaming, so all the sound ultimately comes from the TV?
Is your soundbar currently connected to your TV, or is it connected to the PC?
Sounds good, I'll just stick with the wireless keyboard/mouse for volume control. Thank you again for all the helpful advice!
I use all the entertainment programming via the PC, and then go through the TV. I don't use any of the apps on the TV (netflix, youtube etc). I let my TVs connect to the Yamaha soundbar via bluetooth. What's nice about this set up is that I can control volume via both the keyboard/mouse as well as TV remote.
I use all the entertainment programming via the PC, and then go through the TV. I don't use any of the apps on the TV (netflix, youtube etc). I let my TVs connect to the Yamaha soundbar via bluetooth. What's nice about this set up is that I can control volume via both the keyboard/mouse as well as TV remote.
You seem to want more of what you have. ADD two small 200.00 subs and decouple them for the neighbors.
I think that will do it. It will add a complete sub system that you don't have. If that isn't enough
add a larger center channel or use the subs as stands for a pair of stand-mounts speakers. Same footprint.
The subs below have small 2.1 plate amps. You want more, add it right on top. One or two. A bit of fun too!
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...oofer-Kit-with-2.1-Channel-Amplifier-300-7161
Fruit for thought.
Regards
I think that will do it. It will add a complete sub system that you don't have. If that isn't enough
add a larger center channel or use the subs as stands for a pair of stand-mounts speakers. Same footprint.
The subs below have small 2.1 plate amps. You want more, add it right on top. One or two. A bit of fun too!
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...oofer-Kit-with-2.1-Channel-Amplifier-300-7161
Fruit for thought.
Regards
You don't want a receiver, you''re not listening to FM radio. Weak 30 watt/channel output on most of them.
There is a simpler way if you have room for a 65" TV and sit 3 m back from the screen. Coupla Peavey SP2(2004) speakers cost me $400 plus $100 to drive to get them off craigslist. They were $600 new. They go 54 hz to 17 khz +- 3 db. If you back them against the hard front wall, the 44 hz response is only 7 db down instead of 10 db. $50 for 2 used stands to hold them up near the ceiling.
Peavey M-2600 stereo 75 watt/channel amp, running about $140 + freight on ebay today, working.
3.5 stereo phone plug to dual RCA plug cables from PC to 2 to 1 (or 4 to 1) video switch box (RCA sockets) . TV via fiber to TOSLINK to dual RCA jack converter, ~$13 ebay. 2 RCA male to male cables toslink converter box to switch box. Use switch bos to switch from TV to PC input. Then two RCA plug to 1/4 phone cables from the switch box out to the amp input. Two 1/4 phone plug to nutrix 4 pin male cables from amp outputs to speakers. I use 12 ga but 14 ga is fine for 50 watts.
Total ~$800.
I run my setup at 1/8 watt mostly, except for peaks in classical music of ~50 watts. Speakers will take 500 watts input, but you don't need that much in a room.
At some point you might want to change the electrolytic caps in the amp to get the full 75 watts. Cost about $30 parts $70 tools. They are 30 years old and hitting end of life. This is do it yourself audio. Use safety glasses soldering and don't work on an amp with the power cord plugged in. Sound cneck work after every 2 caps, newbies make a lot of mistakes. Got worse this time ,only 2 caps, you know right where the problem is.
There is a simpler way if you have room for a 65" TV and sit 3 m back from the screen. Coupla Peavey SP2(2004) speakers cost me $400 plus $100 to drive to get them off craigslist. They were $600 new. They go 54 hz to 17 khz +- 3 db. If you back them against the hard front wall, the 44 hz response is only 7 db down instead of 10 db. $50 for 2 used stands to hold them up near the ceiling.
Peavey M-2600 stereo 75 watt/channel amp, running about $140 + freight on ebay today, working.
3.5 stereo phone plug to dual RCA plug cables from PC to 2 to 1 (or 4 to 1) video switch box (RCA sockets) . TV via fiber to TOSLINK to dual RCA jack converter, ~$13 ebay. 2 RCA male to male cables toslink converter box to switch box. Use switch bos to switch from TV to PC input. Then two RCA plug to 1/4 phone cables from the switch box out to the amp input. Two 1/4 phone plug to nutrix 4 pin male cables from amp outputs to speakers. I use 12 ga but 14 ga is fine for 50 watts.
Total ~$800.
I run my setup at 1/8 watt mostly, except for peaks in classical music of ~50 watts. Speakers will take 500 watts input, but you don't need that much in a room.
At some point you might want to change the electrolytic caps in the amp to get the full 75 watts. Cost about $30 parts $70 tools. They are 30 years old and hitting end of life. This is do it yourself audio. Use safety glasses soldering and don't work on an amp with the power cord plugged in. Sound cneck work after every 2 caps, newbies make a lot of mistakes. Got worse this time ,only 2 caps, you know right where the problem is.
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How big is the room?
Used speakers, look around for used amps as well.
I use analog out from my PC to play music, the PC is the DAC, and it has USB too. Drives an old Philips amp, for which I paid $2 at the flea market. Tuner / cassette / amp, Japanese silicon, 20 W/ch., mostly used blow 20%.
20-50 W/ch./8R is enough.
Or buy an old home theater, put the sub under you chair for best effect.
Used speakers, look around for used amps as well.
I use analog out from my PC to play music, the PC is the DAC, and it has USB too. Drives an old Philips amp, for which I paid $2 at the flea market. Tuner / cassette / amp, Japanese silicon, 20 W/ch., mostly used blow 20%.
20-50 W/ch./8R is enough.
Or buy an old home theater, put the sub under you chair for best effect.
Look here for detailed reviews of everything you need for a decent sub 1k$ system:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php
Groundloops said:
All of the gear I'll mention was measured on AudioScienceReview and is considered good choices at their respective price points.
If you use the TV as your input selector/volume control, you will need to convert the digital audio to analog to send audio signal to the powered speakers or audio amplifier.
- Does your TV have an optical S/PDIF digital output?
- Or does it have a coaxial S/PDIF digital output?
I think the sound quality of the USB DAC connected to the PC will be better. However, the sound quality using a S/PDIF DAC connecting to your TV shouldn't be much worse. The FiiO D3 TAISHAN DAC costs only $20 and should work for this.
I'd use a good USB DAC like a Topping D10S ($109) or Topping D10 Balanced ($139) connecting to the PC USB port, with the DAC outputs connecting to a pair of powered speakers like the JBL LSR308P ($580/pair) and use the keyboard/mouse for volume control... and you're done.
Either way will work.
- USB DAC to PC, DAC audio outs to powered speakers or amplifier+passive speakers.
- S/PDIF DAC to TV, DAC audio outs to powered speakers or amplifier+passive speakers.
There are numerous good speakers available. I just found a pair of JBL Studio 530 speakers for very cheap and hooked them up to a vintage 2005 Panasonic home theater receiver, and the results are quite good for TV sound in my small-ish living room. It would be a good setup for gaming or movie soundtracks because details like the rustling of leaves or footsteps really pop from these speakers. You could use something like a used power amplifier for $100 or so (there are many that would work fine) connecting to a pair of bigger passive speakers like JBL Studio 570 or ELAC Debut Reference DBR62 for about $400 to $600 a pair and stay well within your $1000 budget. You could also look for used speakers, but that's more work.
Long story short, you have lots of great options. It really depends on how much work you want to put into this, whether you want to buy used and get better stuff for less money, or if you prefer the ease and convenience of buying new (which is fine if you ask me).
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Hi all,
If I pull the trigger on the JBLs, I want to make sure I get all the other gear ready in time.
This is a DAC I was looking at (link here)
It has two RCA outputs on the back (one for Left speaker, one for Right speaker)
Do I just need to get these RCA cables (link here), and that's it?
It appears that there are 4 total metal things. I can't tell if it's one item (with two RCA things on each end), or if these are two separate cables. Is this the right item, or is there another item I would need for that DAC and the JBLs?
My PC has the ability to output via an optical cable. So I was just going to use that. I'm assuming that I still won't need to connect it via USB to power it, correct?
If I pull the trigger on the JBLs, I want to make sure I get all the other gear ready in time.
This is a DAC I was looking at (link here)
It has two RCA outputs on the back (one for Left speaker, one for Right speaker)
Do I just need to get these RCA cables (link here), and that's it?
It appears that there are 4 total metal things. I can't tell if it's one item (with two RCA things on each end), or if these are two separate cables. Is this the right item, or is there another item I would need for that DAC and the JBLs?
My PC has the ability to output via an optical cable. So I was just going to use that. I'm assuming that I still won't need to connect it via USB to power it, correct?
USB to power the DAC.
I was planning on:
PC --> optical cable --> DAC, and then connecting the DAC to the JBL 305P bookshelf speakers, somehow.
Will the RCA cables I listed above suffice? It seems like with that DAC, it's just one output for each speaker, and then the cable I've listed has 4 different pins (or whatever you call them). I vaguely remember reading something about positive and negative, but I'm not sure if that applies here.
User manual for LSR305 speakers
https://jblpro.com/en-US/site_elements/3-series-mkii-owner-s-manual-english
There is no RCA input jack.
What do you plan to use for a volume control?
https://jblpro.com/en-US/site_elements/3-series-mkii-owner-s-manual-english
There is no RCA input jack.
What do you plan to use for a volume control?
You’ll need a cable like this - https://a.co/d/9AfX0HX
Or adaptors like this - https://a.co/d/5L7NoSz (I’d suggest this, as it lets you use ‘normal’ RCA cables)
@rongon - he linked to the dac in post #13, it has volume.
Or adaptors like this - https://a.co/d/5L7NoSz (I’d suggest this, as it lets you use ‘normal’ RCA cables)
@rongon - he linked to the dac in post #13, it has volume.
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I’d make a set of econowaves if I was stuck on a desert island with $1,000 to spend on speakers. They blend well sonically in almost any room, have huge dynamic range, present a great stereo image, good power response, have good enough bass to rock the house without a subwoofer, are very detailed, respond well to any kind of music, and are economical. They might be too big by today’s standard where anything bigger than a (Gack!) Bose satellite is considered acceptable.
I have a set with 12” woofers. I would like to build a set with dual 12’s. Ahhhhh, someday.
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...467-flex-your-pcd-mettle?t=215536&page=18
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...llaborative-econowave-speaker.150939/page-820
I have a set with 12” woofers. I would like to build a set with dual 12’s. Ahhhhh, someday.
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...467-flex-your-pcd-mettle?t=215536&page=18
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...llaborative-econowave-speaker.150939/page-820