Yes, there is indication on the board and it is wrong, which I find interesting. Both because one of my ribbon tweeters is wired backwards (black is positive) and also with both Speaker A and Speaker B (and also that of another S3A user online) the midrange speaker is wired with black having to be the positive, otherwise the speakers have no bass. I confirmed on the woofer side that e.g. red is the + but it is incorrect.
It was the other fellow who said they would end up in the dump. I hope to stop that from happening!
It was the other fellow who said they would end up in the dump. I hope to stop that from happening!
Why should it be wrong ? At least you should have equal polarities in both channels.
Wiring on the drivers itself should be unchanged by the repair workshop and can be
assumed to be OK as it came out from manufacture. You have to consider that tweeter
polarities are frequently reversed with certain forms of crossover.
The + symbol of post 191 does not apply. Red is "positive". Do not mess everything up.
You can safely assume that they did not open the driver side.
Wiring on the drivers itself should be unchanged by the repair workshop and can be
assumed to be OK as it came out from manufacture. You have to consider that tweeter
polarities are frequently reversed with certain forms of crossover.
The + symbol of post 191 does not apply. Red is "positive". Do not mess everything up.
You can safely assume that they did not open the driver side.
It's 'wrong' because for the full range driver, the black must be connected to the + on the green filter board, otherwise the sound is extremely thin - less bass than NS10s. It's placing the sub only and full range driver out of phase with each other.
Further - the tweeter in speaker B is reversed polarity re post 191 - I'm afraid it must apply for speaker B as it simply throws everything out of phase if connected the other way. I tested all the combinations in my studio and it's not subtle when they are out of phase.
The Adam Repair person connected it as would be logical - coloured on all three +tive filter board connections without actually listening. Again, this results in an out of phase sound. The black on the full range driver must be connected to +tive. This is also how it was on Speaker A, unlike how it was on Speaker B when I got it back.
Here is another photo (from a different angle) from an old post from a user on Gearspace.com showing his Speaker A with the same configuration - the black is connected to +tive and red is on negative, same as mine.
Brown is on positive and black is negative in that case. This is the sub only woofer connection.
Further - the tweeter in speaker B is reversed polarity re post 191 - I'm afraid it must apply for speaker B as it simply throws everything out of phase if connected the other way. I tested all the combinations in my studio and it's not subtle when they are out of phase.
The Adam Repair person connected it as would be logical - coloured on all three +tive filter board connections without actually listening. Again, this results in an out of phase sound. The black on the full range driver must be connected to +tive. This is also how it was on Speaker A, unlike how it was on Speaker B when I got it back.
Here is another photo (from a different angle) from an old post from a user on Gearspace.com showing his Speaker A with the same configuration - the black is connected to +tive and red is on negative, same as mine.
Brown is on positive and black is negative in that case. This is the sub only woofer connection.
